CDSCO orders hair colour makers to adhere to product standards

The Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation's (CDSCO) directive follows concerns that chemicals used in such products may cause allergic reactions, skin irritation and scalp sensitivity.

Rules 34 and 37 of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, and the Cosmetics Rules, 2020, mandate that products must display proper labeling, manufacturing details, a clear list of ingredients, and specific warning or caution statements for consumer safety.

Beauty giants, including L’Oréal India, Godrej Consumer Products Ltd, Hindustan Unilever Ltd, and VLCC, along with professional salon suppliers and modern direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands must strictly implement ingredient declarations, patch test instructions, and mandatory caution statements on labels under the rules, according to a circular issued on 11 June by the Drugs Controller General of India (DCGI).

Furthermore, any subsequent alterations to a product's formulation, quality specifications, or label must be reported to central or state licensing authorities.

All beauty products are required to comply with Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) specifications IS 4707 (Part 1 and Part 2) and IS 8481, Dr Rajeev Raghuvanshi, DCGI, said in the circular. IS 4707 Part 1 outlines the “Generally Recognized as Safe” (GRAS) list for permissible colorants, while Part 2 explicitly restricts substances and lists “Generally Not Recognized as Safe” (GNRAS) ingredients.

Mint queries emailed to the spokespersons of the Union health ministry and the DCGI office, L’Oréal India, Godrej Consumer Products, HUL, VLCC and Biotique remained unanswered.

"However, PPD is a major allergen that frequently causes severe, sometimes life-threatening allergic reactions, as well as pigmented cosmetic dermatitis, which leaves dark pigmentation on the face, forehead, and temples,” he added.

Devaraj said the problem in the country is that many brands secretly add PPD to their formulations for longevity while passing them off as ‘natural’ or ‘safe’ on the packaging. This creates a false sense of security for consumers until they develop a severe reaction and require clinical patch testing.

“We see hair dye allergies very commonly in our OPDs. Because premature graying is rising rapidly—even among young schoolchildren—the market is expanding, making this strict crackdown by the CDSCO a highly welcome and necessary step to ensure complete ingredient transparency,” Devaraj said.

Consumers should never assume that all hair colour products are equally safe, added Dr Raman Kumar, chairman of the Academy of Family Physicians of India, representing 2,500 physicians across the country.

"Before using any hair dye, carefully read the ingredient list, follow the patch-test instructions and pay attention to caution statements on the label. Hair colour formulations can contain substances that may trigger allergic reactions, skin irritation or scalp sensitivity in some individuals.”

Hariom Tyagi, chief executive of Wet and Dry Personal Care, makers of the beauty and personal care products brand NEUD, said, "We strictly test and audit our cosmetic formulations and packaging to guarantee compliance with all quality norms, ensuring our products match global standards for international market acceptance.”

Dr Radhika Raheja Consultant-dermatology and hair transplant, Asian Hospital Faridabad, said consumers must choose regulated, PPD- and ammonia-free hair colours that disclose ingredients to avoid scalp irritation, severe allergies, and hair shaft damage caused by low-quality chemical treatments.