Why Georgia? A roving Indian in Stalin’s land

Despite their indomitable courage, the Georgians had to endure the rule of their mighty neighbours, including Persians, Ottomans, Russian Czars and the Soviets for more than four centuries between 1578 to 1991.

The Georgians have proclaimed themselves free since the breakup of the Soviet Union. It’s ironic that Georgia became a part of the Union, and Joseph Stalin, a Georgian himself, played a pivotal role. He remained at the helm for 30 of the 69 years of the Soviet Union. Stalin was born in Georgia’s Gori village. So, if the Georgians consider the breakup of the Soviet Union their liberation, how do they view Stalin’s autocratic rule? I tried to probe people near the Stalin museum in Gori. Everyone excused themselves citing lack of language abilities.

I know old habits die hard. This reluctance to speak freely is an old ploy of Soviet citizens to escape sticking their neck out. But this isn’t the case everywhere in Georgia. Marjia, who spoke fluent Hindi, met me near Mother Georgia’s statue in capital Tiblisi. She had spent seven months in 2017 in Agra, and as such is interested in India and Indians. I asked her about the Russia-Ukraine war. Marjia doesn’t beat around the bush: “We don’t trust Russia. They bared their intentions the moment they attacked Ukraine. But our government is busy placating them."

I wondered if her comments were politically motivated. To gain further insight, I put the same question to Wako, a 1992 born. He says Georgia may have the backing of Europe and the US but it isn’t a member of Nato (North Atlantic Treaty Organization). “And yet, we can’t trust Russia as it needlessly attacked us on 8 August 2008." I asked him if he feared Russia could invade again? He didn’t deny it, but said Georgia will have to find its own way to defend itself.

I met many Georgians who shied away from criticising their government or Russia. Jojo was one, so I changed tack. I asked if he had to leave Georgia, where would he like to live: the US, England or Russia? He said the US. What if he isn’t allowed? Russia was the next pick.

“I have friends there. Russia is a rich nation. I know how those people think and what they need. I’ll have better chances for employment." I met another young man in Batumi, who told me the country was suffering from joblessness and the economy was faltering, but the government was busy with its balancing act between the West and Moscow while they played out their shadow war in Ukraine. He said it was the right thing to do, as Georgia can’t afford to provoke Russia.

Statistics partially support his claims. The International Monetary Fund pegged Georgia’s economic growth for 2025-26 at 6%, far lower than a year ago. And then, unemployment started creeping up early 2025. Still, Georgia is in a better position than its neighbours. Tourism has seen brisk since the pandemic, boosting the economy.

Still some things are quite apparent. The present government isn’t popular with a number of people. The younger generation is feeling edgy due to an uncertain future and the problem of illegal migration is assuming alarming proportions. I bumped into Mohammad Ali from Pakistan. He’s been here for years and he complains that the behaviour of the police and locals isn’t favourable.

On this issue, I encountered contradictions. I met many medical students from India in Tiblisi and Batumi. They said the old may have reservations but young Georgians were welcoming. These students are making critical contributions to the local economy by paying fees. As it was vacation time, they were seen working in restaurants. Their hard work left me impressed.

My Georgia experience was mixed. There wasn’t much hostility, but people did seem aloof. At the airport immigration counter, the way officers took time to check every document made me feel there’s an extra vigil on Indians. The other half-a-dozen Indians with me were really harassed; probed about the currency they carried and how they would spend it. A person was made to count all the notes she had. I’d not seen such treatment anywhere else.

We Indians must think what will we achieve by shifting to Georgia, when we are progressing at a fast pace. What can a country traumatised by a bloody past, living in a weary present, and looking at a hazy future offer us?

Shashi Shekhar is editor-in-chief, Hindustan. Views are personal.